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Capt. Rob writes "Reflections on the Water", one of the most popular columns we have. They are

stories from his day-to-day adventures in our local waters, with a little touch of personality. He is a full time back-country guide who's been fishing the waters of South West Florida since boyhood. He specializes in both light tackle spin and fly-fishing and supplies all the necessary gear for your charter. You'll spend your day aboard SoulMate, an 22 foot Skeeter that can navigate the shallow waters of Pine Island Sound and Estero Bay while searching for snook, redfish, trout and tarpon. Capt. Rob not only welcomes the accomplished angler, he encourages families with youngsters to join him for a day on the water.

 

Reflections on the Water / 2009
Capt. Rob Modys
2009
March.
April.
January.
February.

January 2009

 

I, for one, am very happy to see 2008 in the rear view mirror.  It’s been an amazing year to say the least.  I’m glad that the presidential elections are finally over and that there hasn’t been too much coverage of the future 2012 elections.  At least not yet.  I was also glad to see that even with a downturn in the economy, folks still seem to want to recreate on the water.  We Floridians should be very thankful for our great fishing and warm winter weather.  I’m hoping for a cold winter up north...  That should send the snowbirds and tourist south for the winter and hopefully, they’ll bring money to spend.

 

Even with the afore mentioned economy and what is now being called a recession, I believe there is a lot to look forward to in 2009, both on and off the water.

 

First, the project to re-open Blind Pass has begun.  For those that are new to the area, Blind Pass is located between Sanibel and Captiva Islands.  About 10 years ago sand filled in the pass and Sanibel and Captiva became one island connected by what is now essentially a useless bridge.  Before the pass closed up it was one of the best fishing and shelling areas in all of Pine Island Sound.  Snook could be found there almost all year and I caught and lost some huge ones under that bridge.  Shrimp could be caught at night under lights on the docks of Roosevelt Channel and the small channel behind the Blind Pass Cottages.  My brother and I would vacation there back in the early ’80’s and spend a week fishing and shelling with our kids.  We’d tuck them in for the night and head out to the docks on the back bay and fish under the lights for snook.  They were so thick they looked like planks of wood set side by side.  It was easy to get a snook dinner back then.  There were also redfish, sheepshead and lots of snapper in the area and we could even lean over and scoop up shrimp as they cruised by on the current.  The shells there were amazing.  You could simply sit on a pile of them near the bridge and collect a bag full without moving.  I used to call it, “Low impact shelling.”

The project to open the pass is scheduled to be completed in May and I can’t wait to see what happens down the road.  I know it’s probably going to take awhile for things to turn around at Blind Pass but I’ve waited 10 years for this.  I can wait a bit longer.

 

I’m going to be a granddad again in 2009.  This will be my fourth grandchild but my first grandson.  That’s special to me because I’m surrounded by women!  I have a beautiful wife, three beautiful daughters, three beautiful granddaughters and two female cats.  It’s about time I get a boy to fuss over.  I was walking by a toy store the other day and noticed all the “boy” stuff.  I can’t wait to supply him with pop guns and GI Joe’s.

 

This fishing has improved every year since Hurricane Charley and 2009 should be no exception.  The redfish bite has steadily improved and snook seem to be doing better.  I’m sure new regulations have helped along with a fairly normal rainy season.  The less Lake Okeechobee water that gets dumped on the us, the better.  I’ve experienced a major return of pompano to the area and I believe the gill net ban implemented in 1995 certainly helped that species.  Spotted sea trout seem to be getting bigger and bigger each year.  It’s no longer a chore to find slot fish and I’ve seen quite a few in the 25 to 29 inch range.  This should be a great year for trout fishing.

Lastly... Fuel prices have fallen to five year lows.  I saw a sign along US41 for $1.69 a gallon for unleaded regular gas.  Fuel this July was over $4.00 a gallon!  Take advantage of this while you can.  Go boating.  Get out there and fish and sightsee.  Go up to the islands of North Captiva and Cayo Costa and celebrate the New Year on the beach.  Visit Cabbage Key and have a cheeseburger.  Stop by Barnacle Phil’s and have bowl of black beans and yellow rice.  Visit your local tackle shop and spend a few bucks on a new rod and reel.  Spread  a little bit of wealth and have a very happy and prosperous New Year!

 

February 2009

 

Ok guys.  It’s February and Valentine’s day is right around the corner.  It’s time to do something special for your significant other or you’ll find yourself in the dog house for an entire year.  Now you could go with the usual box of chocolates or the bouquet of flowers.  Then again, you could also be a bit more creative and really surprise her this time around.  

 

Even if you and the little lady are avid outdoor types and you spend some time on the water, there’s a good chance that it’s often not done alone.  I know that most of my water time involves extended family members, outings with children and, in my case, charter customers.  It’s very rare that I get to go on a boat trip with my wife by our lonesomes.

 

Let me suggest this... How about a romantic trip around the islands by boat without bait and fishing rods.  Sounds crazy?  Let me show you the way from the dark side to the light.

 

I’d start by planning the trip for a weekday instead of the weekend if at all possible.  Weekdays on the the water are generally much quieter than weekends with fewer boats and jet skis zipping around.  Began the trip in the afternoon, perhaps just before lunch.   Once on board make your way to a waterfront restaurant.  Near the waters of Pine Island Sound you have Cabbage Key, Barnacle Phil’s, The Green Flash, ‘Tween Waters and the Tarpon Lodge among others to choose from.  In The lower Sound you could stop in at the Waterfront Restaurant in St. James City or Grandma Dot’s on Sanibel.  In Estero Bay try the Fish House at Fish-Tale Marina.  My wife and I had dinner there a while back and it was delicious.

 

Take your time with lunch.  Remember, you’re not on a schedule and you’re not trying to catch the prefect tide to catch the perfect fish.  This is her day...

 

Next comes a little sightseeing.  If you are in Estero Bay, head over to Mound Key and take the walk up to the top of the island.  It’s quiet, beautiful and the view is one of the  best in the area.  If Pine Island is your destination then head over to North Captiva or Cayo Costa.  Both have beautiful beaches, accessible only by boat, with stretches that are usually desolate in the late afternoon.

 

About an hour before sunset head out on the water, pick a spot with a view, and anchor up.  I personally like watching a sunset from the back bays of Estero, Pine Island Sound and Matlacha Pass.  Sunsets from the beach are OK but they always seem more dramatic when they occur over mangrove islands.  Also in those areas you almost always have birds heading for roosting spots and dolphins swimming about to add to the scenery.

 

Don’t forget the champagne and the champagne glasses and don’t forget the strawberries.  That’s right gents... Strawberries and champagne were made for each other.  If you didn’t know that, then you’ll need much more romantic help than this article can provide.

 

Have a very Happy Valentine’s Day!

 

March 2009

 

As most of you have heard the country is in an economic meltdown.  This situation has affected just about everyone in every walk of life but some more so than others.  We, as a nation, have been fed an ever growing arsenal of gloom and doom from most of the press as well as Congress, the Senate and the President himself.  

 

I’ve had enough.  

 

Over the past several weeks I’ve noticed a positive turn for the better that I felt was worth noting here in my monthly column.  It seems that not everyone is buying (no pun intended) this downtrodden attitude.  Folks seem to be working on a more can-do outlook.  I even had a friend of mine say to me that she felt that 2009 was going to be a positive year because the general public is tired of hearing dismal news and is ready to move on.  I have to agree!

 

My occupation is in the field of fishing but when you get right down to it, I really work in the tourism industry.  I don’t know if you have noticed it or not, but there are a lot of new faces in town.  Our winter guests, the snowbirds, are back and they seem to be shopping.  I see out-of-town license tags in almost every mall parking lot.  My phone is ringing with charter requests and my fishing classes and seminars are full.  The weekly tourists are also here, escaping the cold from up north and it looks to me like more are on the way.

 

I recently volunteered my time working the booth for Lehr’s Economy Tackle at the Florida Sportsman Show.  We were busy!  It didn’t look to me like anglers were ready to give up fishing.  Now granted, Dave Westra and his crew had some great deals on the tables but we still sold lots of reels, rods and tackle with only modest discounts.  I’d have to say the show was a success despite the economy!

 

My sister reported back to me from the Miami Boat Show.  She said it was packed and that the organizers were amazed at the turnout.  Why were they amazed?  Everyone in Florida loves boats.  Everyone that loves boats dreams of someday owning something that will take them away from the hustle and bustle of everyday life.  Why on earth were they surprised by a good turnout?

 

I was recently invited to help grow an idea put together by Al Durrett, the owner of Fish-Tale Marina.  He approached a friend of mine about putting a charter fleet in the marina to service the Estero Bay area and the Gulf of Mexico.  I got involved a few weeks later and now Fish-Tale has a full staff of inshore and offshore Captains with a total of over 150 years of Florida fishing experience.  What impressed me most was Al’s drive to complete this task in spite of the news of a bad economy.  I like that.  I like being a part of something that took thinking outside the box to accomplish.

 

I firmly believe you can’t sit back right now and wait for the phone to ring.  I also believe that the United States is still the greatest country in the world and will continue to be so with hard work and perseverance.  Be positive, keep your chin up and keep plugging away.

 

Now I’m going to hop down off this soap box and go fishing.

 

April 2009

 

My fishing friends and fellow charter captains are stoked.  It seems the nice warm temperatures of mid March have brightened everyone’s outlook and April should be a banner month for fishing. The cold fronts of January and February are in the past and the talk now is of snook, redfish and tarpon.  

 

It was a tough winter.  We had lots of mornings in the 30’s with highs only making it up into the mid 50’s.  The wind blew... and blew and blew.  Heck, I got so used to the wind blowing I almost didn’t know what to do when it stopped!  Water temperatures dropped to the low 50’s  and that led to some cold fish and some slow fishing days.

 

There was good news.  We have had a normal dry winter and that meant no runoff.  We haven’t been plagued with red tide or piles of red drift algae.  The outlook for some serious fishing is in the cards.

 

Snook must feel the same way we do.  The bite has been incredible and they are starting to move from their river and creek hideaways to the mangrove islands in the back of our bays.  They are staging for the spawn that begins in May and they are readily feeding on live white bait and shrimp.  Bass Assassins, Sluggos and other soft plastic artificials are also working well.

 

I love snook fishing.  They are a special gamefish that will take the angler to the limits of his or her abilities.  Even a midsize snook of twenty-four to twenty-eight inches will do everything it can to throw the hook or cut you off.  And then there are the big snook, the over slot ones that go thirty-five to over forty inches and weigh in double digits.  Once you’ve hooked up with one of these beast all other species seem to pale in comparison.  This isn’t trout or walleye fishing.  This is backcountry saltwater fishing at its finest.

 

Redfish will also be on the prowl in April and more active with the warmer water temperatures.  They’ll be looking for food around oyster bars, mangrove shorelines and islands. This is the time of year that I start my redfish hunts by first targeting ladyfish.  Reds are hungry in the spring and they’re looking for a bigger and more nourishing food source.  Ladyfish seem to fit the bill and they are readily available.  I start my trips on the grass flats hunting for schools of ladyfish feeding on the ever present glass minnows.  Find the birds working over the bait and you’ll usually find the ladies.  Using Mirrolures, Yozuris and other artificial swim lures, work the outside edges of the bait balls and you should have a hookup in no time.  Once you have at least three or four ladyfish on board it’s time to head off to your redfish spots.

 

You’re going to use the ladyfish as cut bait so all you need to rig is a 25 to 30 pound test fluorocarbon leader and a 2/0 or 3/0 circle hook.  Put a chunk of ladyfish on the hook, cast it to a likely spot and sit back and wait.  The reds will simply pick the bait up and move off with it.  When you see the line moving it’s time to reel.

 

Tarpon should be seen in our near shore waters in April.  As the water warms, a bait fish called thread fin herring show up in big numbers around our bridges and beaches and the tarpon follow this food source.  The bite usually begins off Fort Myers Beach and then migrates to the beaches of Sanibel, Captiva and then Boca Grande Pass.

 

In April you’ll want to net the larger “threadies” early in the morning around first light.   You don’t need a well full, just enough for baiting hooks as the morning progresses.  Forty to fifty baits will do the trick.  Head for the beaches just as the sun is coming up and look for rolling tarpon.  Use of a trolling motor is a must to be successful.  Find the schools, determine the direction they’re moving and then maneuver your boat into position to head them off.  If done properly you’re going to experience one of the most exciting fishing moments of your life.  There is really nothing quite like a hundred plus pounds of fish doing acrobatic jumps attached to the end of your line.  It’s something that you’ll never forget.

 

Spring has sprung and summer is on it’s way.  Get out there and enjoy everything that southwest Florida fishing has to offer.

 

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May 2009

 

I’ve spent a good portion of my life living, fishing and playing in the great outdoors of  Florida.  I’ve worked on the water for a number of years and with that comes the dangers of over exposure to the harmful rays of the sun.

 

When I was a child we didn’t even use sunblock.  Those were the days of the Coppertone girl with print ads and billboards showing a little blonde girl (Jodie Foster) having her pants pulled down by a small dog to expose her bare, lilly white butt.  The rest of her body was golden tanned!  My how things have changed!  With new science and research it’s been proven that the UV rays from the sun we worship here in Florida are actually quite bad for your skin.  It’s no longer fashionable to have that deep dark resort tan.

 

Because I work on the water almost everyday and I spend most of that time in the sun,  I thought I’d pass along some useful information to help you protect yourself from over exposure to Mr. Sol.

 

Sunblock.  I use it everyday and recommend you put it on whenever you are planning a day outside.  I like the white rub-on lotion vs. the spray-on version.  The lotion covers your skin much better and there is little or no evaporation.  The sprays seem to put most of the protection on the deck of my boat and are impossible to use in the wind.

 

I personally use “Bull Frog SuperBlock” lotion with a 45 SPF factor.  The SPF number is very important.  An SPF 10 rating means you can stay in the sun without burning 10 times longer than you can without using sunblock.  Be careful with the numbers.  If your skin begins to burn in only 15 minutes then an SPF of 10 is only going to protect you for a little over 2 hours providing you don’t sweat.  Yes, you can reapply but I’ve found that it’s best to put the sunblock on BEFORE you leave the house.  It works much better on cool, dry skin then it does on sweaty hot skin.  Make sure you put extra lotion on your nose, ears and the tops of your hands.  If you are going to be on a boat you should make sure to apply extra sunblock to the backs of your legs.  The reflection off of the deck is brutal.

 

Clothing.  It is important to wear proper clothing for protection from the sun.  Many of the sport clothing manufactures are now making shirts and pants with SPF ratings on the labels.  The highest I’ve seen is 30 and that’s a whole lot better than the typical SPF 5 that a cotton t-shirt will provide.  The sporting / fishing attire is also going to keep you a lot cooler than street clothing.  It’s also designed with light weight materials that breath and “wick” sweat away from your body.  I’d recommend that you buy long sleeve shirts and long pants.  The sleeves can be rolled up if necessary and most fishing pants come with zip off legs that turn them into shorts after returning to the dock. Here’s a tip for you.  Buy lighter colored shirts and pants for summer wear.  The light colors reflect sunlight while dark colors absorb it.  There’s nothing hotter than a black shirt on a sunny day.

 

Accessories.  There are several items that you need to add to your arsenal that will help protect you from the sun’s rays.  

 

Get a good pair of sunglasses.  The sun is brutal on the eyes and a nice polarized pair of shades will cut the glare and will also provide protection for a wayward lure or hook.

 

Sun gloves have been on the market for quite some time now.  They are fingerless and light weight and dry quickly even after being totally submersed in water.  They are designed to protect the back of you hands from the sun and work much better than sunblock lotion because they won’t “wash off”.

 

A hat is a must and the best are ones made with light colors and wide brims.  I have a Tilley hat and would recommend it, hands down.

The buff is a cross between a scarf and a full face mask.  They are tubes of a stretch material that are lightweight and breath even in the hottest weather.  You simply pull the tube over your head and then down around your neck.  You can pull it back up at anytime to protect your face and even your ears if needed.  They are simple and comfortable and easy to use.  Just don’t wear it to your local bank branch office.

 

Until next time... Get out there and enjoy all that our area has to offer.

 

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June 2009

 

Ah June.  Wonderful, warm June.  It’s the month that officially ushers in summer and some of the best fishing a guy or gal could ask for.  I’m reminded of an old Jimmy Buffett tune that has the line, “Wishin’ every month of the year could be June.”  

 

Me too.

 

The folks that head our way in the winter months have no idea what they are missing. Well, maybe they do.  They are escaping Michigan and Ohio wintery weather with icy temperatures and piles of snow for our much warmer climate.  That much they’ve figured out.  But what they really don’t understand is that our excellent winter fishing turns into something incredible in the summer.

 

I can already hear the protest from the locals.  “Don’t tell them about summer!  We like having the water to ourselves!  Are you crazy?”

 

Please hear me out.  The overall economy is still in the crapper.  Business is down just about everywhere and it’s no different in the fishing and tourism business.  People are buckling down and traveling less.  I think it’s important to give them incentive to visit our area and spend a little money during the good old summertime.

 

The biggest argument I hear from Northerners about coming down here in the summer is the heat.  Yes, it’s warm here but it’s really not hot.  The average summer temperature is 92 degrees.  Years ago I had grandparents that lived in New Jersey and Virginia.  Trust me... it got a lot hotter there in July than it ever got here.  The summer heat in the Tidewater area was brutal.  The humidity was so high it felt like you were trying to breath water.  Fort Myers, however, has the benefit of sea breezes.  These usually come up in the late afternoon followed by storms and showers that cool things off and make for pleasant evenings and beautiful sunsets.

 

Hotel rooms are cheaper in the summer.  Our “season” ends around Easter and that’s when the resorts and rental condos drop their prices.  There is usually another drop in the late summer and early fall.  In August you can get a room for almost half the winter rate!  Heck... you could stay 2 weeks instead of 1 and all the amenities

are still there.  You can rent a boat, go parasailing or sit at your favorite watering hole and have pina  coladas.  By the way... the drink specials are better in the summer.  (I just made that up.)

 

There are no long waits at your favorite restaurants.  That’s right.  You can just decide to go at the last minute and shortly after walking in the door get a seat.  They also don’t run out of the “menu special” at 6:30 in the evening.

 

Heavy highway traffic is almost nonexistent.  Going to and from the beach only takes minutes and there is plenty of parking when you get there.  Heck, on some weekday mornings you might be the only person on the beach.

 

And then there’s the fishing.  Goodness gracious, it’s better than good.  If you can’t catch fish here in the summer you might as well take up golf.  Inshore, offshore it doesn’t matter.  It’s important to understand that our fish are mostly warm water species.  They don’t like cold water anymore than a Florida Cracker does.  It slows their metabolism down and they become much less active.  When the water temps rise into the low 80’s the bait shows up in huge numbers and with that the feeding frenzy begins.

 

I have experienced days in the winter that were too cold to fish.  I’ve never, ever experienced a day in the summer that was too hot to fish!  Just do as the locals do.  Go out early in the morning, catch dinner and be back at the dock around 1 in the afternoon.  That way you avoid the thunderstorms.  Then take your catch to a local restaurant and have them cook it up for you while you are having a Pina Colada.  After all, the drinks are cheaper in the summer.

 

 

 

 

July 2009

 

Catch & Release-      Over the years I’ve participated in many small fishing tournaments.  Most were benefits for organizations I support or group efforts put together by fellow guides for large conventions and the like.  I won a few and lost a few and they were always fun.  The only pressure involved were the side bets that the guys and gals made the night before over drinks.  Sometimes a lizardfish would pay big!

 

I wasn’t really interested in big name and big money tournaments.  I have a successful guide business and that takes up most of my time.  The thought of more days on the water working tournaments just seemed a bit much to me.  But then a series of things happened.

 

First, I started running my charters out of Fish-Tale Marina back in early 2009 and by shear coincidence I had seen the flyer for the 20th Annual Caloosa Catch and Release Tournament coming up in June.  I got an idea to put together a team for Fish-Tale and was lucky enough to land Capt. Brad Brown and Capt. Sean Davis as teammates.  We all had been working charters out of the marina for several months and all of us know Estero Bay pretty well but we had never fished together before.  Brad had lots of tournament experience and had recently won the Flatsmasters.  Sean was also well versed in tournaments and had fished the Caloosa series for 7 years.  I was the tournament virgin with lots of fishing experience and lots of enthusiasm!   

 

Then a couple of months ago I took over the reins of a fishing radio show called Reel Talk on ESPN 770.  The show covers all things fishing in and around Southwest Florida including environmental issues, fishing and boating shows, fishing reports and tournaments.  I felt I was pretty well versed in most aspects of the sport but I was sorely lacking in firsthand knowledge of tournaments.  Also controversy had suddenly entered into the equation.  Many of my friends and fellow captains believe that tournament fishing is harmful to the grass flats and to the fish themselves and may even be detrimental to the quality of fishing in our area.

 

I’ve always felt it’s tough to talk about something unless you’ve experienced it first hand.  You can read about parachuting or scuba diving a deep wreck, but until you’ve actually done those things you really have no idea what you are talking about.  

 

The wheels were in motion and it was time to jump out of the plane.

 

The Caloosa Catch and Release is a 2 day event.  The sought after species are snook, redfish and sea trout and you must have 2 of each fish on your scorecard each day.  In other words... you have to “double slam” on BOTH days to even hope to finish in the top 10.  The scoring is done in inches.  The total lengths of all the qualifying fish are added up at the end of the 2 days and the team with the most inches wins.

 

I had done the math.  Based on past tournaments we had to score at least 300 points to be in the top 5.  That meant that each fish had to average 25 inches.  I can’t remember the last time I saw four 25 inch trout in a two day period!  We were going to need some nice reds and snook or this was going to be difficult at best.

Sean, Brad and I had made a pact just days before the tournament.  We all agreed to have fun.  Don’t get me wrong, winning was important to us but I believe we were more interested in enjoying ourselves while doing well.

 

Day one went pretty much as planned.  We had a big snook and a big redfish on the card early and then added another mid-sized red and snook by 9:30.  We then worked on trout and had the card filled by early afternoon.  I had caught 4 of the 6 fish on the card and was starting to feel like I was earning my keep along side the “Pros”.  We had to be back at the dock by 5 PM for check-in so that gave us time to do some upgrading.  Sean had had a rough morning with break offs and a missed fish but soon redeemed himself by landing a big red and a big snook within minutes of each other.  We headed for check in with 161 inches of fish.  We were half way there.

 

Day two wasn’t pretty.  I worked the radio show from 7 until 10 AM while my partners fished.  When I rejoined them at 11 AM they had a nice snook and redfish on the card.  The bay was crawling with boats and there was another tournament taking place.  It seemed that every spot we wanted to hit already had a boat on it.  The decision was made to search far and wide for available space but that didn’t work either.  We finally picked up another medium sized snook around 2 PM and decided to hit an area we had fished the day before.  Once there, Sean nailed a big snook right away but it popped the hook.  A few minutes later he hooked up again and this time was able to boat a big snook for an upgrade.  Brad then hooked up with a big redfish but it popped off at the boat!  To say we were all bummed would be an understatement.  It was after 3 PM and we only had two snook and a red on the card and we knew we had to head back at 4 PM to make the check in on time.

 

While Brad and Sean worked live bait for another redfish I decided to put on a popping cork and “Gulp” shrimp combo and look for trout.  The flat looked good for both species and time was running out.  At about 3:30 I hooked a big fish.  It was the big red we needed but I was fighting it on the smallest rod I had with me.  After a short battle my partners netted the fish and there were smiles and high fives all around.  Now it was time to get a couple trout.

 

Sean got the first one on live bait at about 3:45.  We worked and worked to find another one but it just didn’t seem like it was in the cards.  At 4 PM Brad told me to keep fishing for a trout while he and Sean got the gear stowed and the boat in order to head for the check in.  I was just about to give it up when my lure got smacked.  It was a nice trout!  We all held a collective breath until the fish was netted, measured and written on the score card and at 4:05 we headed for home with a full card.

 

We arrived at the dock with 4 minutes to spare and we turned in a total of 154 inches.  That gave us a two day score of 315 points.  We had made our goal and we finished 5th in the Pro division.  We had beaten some of the best captains in the business and we had been beaten by the best as well.

 

Participating in this tournament has been an eye opening experience for me.  I witnessed 68 teams work hard to get to the top of the leader board and I witnessed ethical treatment of the fish and the environment.  The Caloosa also generated much needed funds via an auction for Florida Gulf Coast University and the Strong Kids Campaign as well as providing a family event that was enjoyed by all.

 

I’m still happy to just be a “charter” captain but I have to admit I’m looking forward to the next event in the Caloosa series.  

 

Hey Brad & Sean.  Wanna do it again?

 

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August 09

 

I have been to a lot of beautiful places over the years and have enjoyed the scenery, fishing and the local hospitality but my latest adventure was, without question, the best.  

 

Several months ago while at a small get together some close friends of ours mentioned that they wanted to return to the island of Eleuthera in the Bahamas.  I listened with curiosity while Angie and Alan explained the area and what it had to offer in the way of fishing.  They also mentioned that it had some of the most remote and beautiful beaches they had ever visited.

 

I few weeks later, at another party, they brought photographs of Eleuthera with them and ran a slide show for our edification.  One word came to mind while I watched... Paradise.  My wife JoNell and I made the decision right then and there that we weren’t going to miss out on this trip.  Neither one of us had had a real non-working vacation in over 11 years and now was the time.

 

Plans were eventually made to include my brother, his sons and my mother on the trip but a series of events nixed that and the traveling party turned out to be just the four of us.  Angie and Alan did their best to prepare us with the proper traveling paraphernalia.  They advised us on fly fishing gear, flies, lines and leaders as well as all the other extras to be packed for the trip.  We even invested in a small hand held GPS to help us find our way around the island.  It looked like we were going on safari instead of an island vacation.

 

My first look at Eleuthera was out of the chartered Beech 1900 airplane window at about 3000 feet above the island.  What a view.  A combination of pastel blue and green greeted my eyes along with strips of pink sand beaches.  The remoteness of the scene below was breathtaking.

 

Eleuthera is located on the most eastern edge of the Bahama Islands.  It is over 100 miles long and in most places, only a few miles wide.  There is one main road that runs the entire length of the island called Queen’s Highway.  Off the highway there are hundreds of small roads (more like rutted paths) that lead to some of the most remote and beautiful beaches you will ever have the pleasure of leaving a footprint on.

 

After arriving at the airport and checking through Customs we loaded our bags in our rental jeep.  The paperwork for the vehicle was simply a signature.  No check of a drivers license, insurance, first born son or credit history.  You signed a slip of paper that told you the daily rate and drove off.  No worries mon!

 

A short time later we checked into the Duck Inn at Governor’s Harbour.  The small town is located almost in the center of Eleuthera and has some of the oldest architecture on the island.  The Duck Inn is owned by John and Kay Duckworth and is a private compound with four buildings connected by winding walkways bordered by orchid and fruit gardens.  It’s a paradise within paradise.

During our first couple of days Angie and Alan acted as our tour guides and then turned us lose to explore.  We soon learned why Eleuthera is sometimes referred to as the “Adventurer’s Island”.  JoNell almost drowned at the Friday night Fish Fry.  It’s a long story.  We almost drowned our rental jeep.  It’s a longer story.  We almost drowned our rental jeep again!  It’s another long story.  Let me put it this way.  If you want to have the most fun and find the most beautiful beaches and the best fishing, you have to work for it.  There are very few signs to point the way.

 

There are scenes on Eleuthera I will never forget.  My first look at Ten Bay.  Savannah Sound at low tide with elusive bonefish everywhere.  The coral reefs and the beach at Lighthouse Point.  The Queen’s Baths.  The caves at Twin Beach and the spectacular view at the top of the cliffs.  I could go on and on.

 

One thing is clear.  JoNell and I are already planning our next trip to Eleuthera.  We learned a lot the first time around and we want to continue exploring the island.  There are many more photos to be taken, fish to be caught and beaches to walk.

 

 

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September 2009

 

I remember the first time I saw the movie Jaws.  I was the projectionist in a movie theater on a Coast Guard base in Yorktown, Virginia.  I could watch the feature through a small window but it required sticking your head in the window frame with very little room to spare.  In the first scene of the movie an unsuspecting female swimmer meets her doom.  The initial attack by the shark made me jump and I hit my head on the upper frame of the window.  I damn near knocked myself out!  I spent the rest of the evening watching from the hallway and by the end of the film was convinced I’d never swim in the ocean again.

 

A lot of time has passed since my first viewing of Jaws but my feelings about swimming in the Gulf of Mexico haven’t changed.  The movie is a part of that cautionary attitude  but more recently my profession, as a fishing guide, has reinforced my fears.  I’ve seen a lot of big sharks caught very close to the beaches and in the shallow backwaters of Pine Island Sound.  I’m talking BIG sharks.  Bulls in the 7 to 8 foot range and hammerheads up to 16 feet long.  I’ve had bull sharks make beelines for the boat after being hooked and run into the hull.  But my love of hunting for and catching sharks has never wavered.  As a matter of fact, I’d rank it right up there with big snook fishing or fighting bull reds.

 

Shark catching isn’t as easy as it seems.  Most anglers have the notion that you go a few miles offshore, chum with bloody cut fish and bait and then put a chunk of the same on a big hook with big tackle and you are good to go.  Nothing could be further from the truth.  Sharks have patterns just like other game fish and the big ones show in certain areas at certain times of the year.

 

Let’s start with the easiest of what I call the “big three” and work up.

 

Bonnet head sharks are found in good numbers in our local waters.  They resemble the hammerhead shark and are most often confused with it.  The difference between the two is the shape of the head and the overall size.  A bonnet head shark has a rounded flat head and the hammerhead’s head looks like a hammer with eyes on the outside edges.  Bonnet heads rarely exceed 5 feet in length in our waters and the hammerheads can go three times that size.  The simplest way I’ve found to catch bonnets is to use a popping cork with about 4 feet of 40 pound test fluorocarbon leader terminated with a small 1/4 ounce yellow jig head.  Tip the jig with live shrimp and  always break the shrimp in half.  This makes it bleed.  Work the cork just like you would for sea trout.  The more popping the better.  Bonnets can’t see very well but they sure can smell and hear noises.  The best bite is in the cooler months from November to March and the best area seems to be the sand flats just off of the Sanibel Lighthouse and the Bunche Beach area.

 

Blacktips are a ton of fun on light tackle.  They are one of the few sharks that jump when hooked and can put on a heck of a show.  They generally run 3 to 6 feet in length but I’ve seen a few bigger ones.  I also use the popping cork rig for this species with a few modifications.  I put a small length of 40 pound test wire just above a 4/0 circle hook and then use frozen threadfin herring cut in half for bait.  I find most of my blacktips in the near shore waters close to the passes.  They seem to especially like the outbound tides.  The best time of year for blacktips seems to be from March until late June.  They seem to show up about the same time the tarpon do.

 

Bull sharks are scary.  They can be almost anywhere at anytime and they are ranked right up there with the great white for aggressiveness.  The simplest way to catch one of these beast is to anchor up in the middle of Pine Island Sound in an area south of the fishing shacks and north of Chino Island.  They range in size from about 4 to 9 feet long and they can be found in as little as 3 feet of water.  Once on anchor start chumming with cut frozen threads, cut fresh ladyfish and cut fresh jacks.  Use a stout rod with a reel that can hold several hundred yards of line.  I use a wire leader and a 5/0 circle hook and then bait it with 1/2 a cut jack.  Bull sharks love bloody jacks.  Cast it off the stern of the boat and sit back and wait.  If they are in the area it shouldn’t take more than twenty or thirty minutes to hook up.  If you do happen to get one be aware that they get even meaner when they are brought to boat side.  I never take a bull shark of ANY size out of the water.  They have a very bad temper that seems to get worse when they see anglers.

 

Shark fishing is fun.  It’s also a bit dangerous and exciting.  There’s nothing like seeing a big shark alongside the boat for the first time.  They are the apex predator in our waters and they need to be handled with respect and care.   

 

Oh yeah... don’t swim in the Sound either.

 

 

 

October 2009

 

I took a honeymoon couple up to North Captiva a few weeks ago for a shelling trip.  I enjoy these trips a lot.  I don’t need to net bait, pack rods and tackle or really do much in the way of mental or equipment preparation.  Put a few plastic bags and towels onboard and we are good to go.  Or so I thought.

 

Shelling is a big pastime here in our area.  We have some of the best beaches for it in the world and I was surprised to find out how many folks come here just for the sport of shelling.  I also slowly but surely learned that there really is a system for finding the best specimens and you do need a game plan and the proper tools.

 

I’ve spent years doing the “Sanibel Stoop”.  That’s what the locals call the posture you adapt to while looking for shells.  It’s sort of a slight bend at the waist along with hunched over shoulders and your head in a look down position while walking the beach.  If you don’t look up every now and then you’ll walk into someone else because they are doing the same thing.  Thank goodness there are no trees at the water’s edge.

 

I usually help with the treasure hunt on my trips because I find it boring to just sit and wait on the boat.  Whatever I find I give to the clients.  Well... almost everything.  There is this one shell called a junonia that if found, I’d stick it in my pocket and never say a word about it.  If I could ever find one.  I think they are a myth.

 

After turning over my loot to the charter folks I’m usually asked, “How did you find these? They are beautiful! Were they on this beach?”  I started to realize that like any other hobby or sport there is a learning curve and with practice you do get better and better at something as simple as shelling.

 

Here’s what I’ve learned.

 

Tides are as critical to shelling as they are to fishing.  The lower the water the better.  Low water exposes the outer sand bars just off the beach and they are worth exploring especially on the deeper Gulf side.

 

Early morning seems to be most productive simply because you’ve beaten the crowd.   Combine a low tide with early dawn and you have the makings of what I’d call shelling nirvana.

 

A good pair of polarized sunglasses are a must even in low light conditions.  Costa del Mar, Ocean Waves and Maui Jim are some of the best and help a lot in cutting down the glare from the beach sand as well as letting you see the bottom in shallow water.  I use the Costa 580’s.

 

Go barefoot especially when walking the water’s edge.  You can feel slight bumps under your feet and that may be a buried shell treasure.  You’ll miss it if you are wearing flip flops or clunking around in Crocs.

 

Key on specific colors.  For example, Florida horse conchs have an orange hue so look specifically for orange.  Junonias are white with brown spots.  Look for that pattern while scanning the beach.

 

If you come upon a pile of shells, sit down on it and do a little digging.  You’d be surprised at how many quality shells you can find without even moving!

 

Post storm shelling is the best.  The upside of a tropical storm or a hurricane is the incredible amount of shells that get deposited on our beaches.  While everyone else is at home watching The Weather Channel, get out there and collect.

 

Remember.  Enjoy all our area has to offer.  Grab the family or a friend and head to one of our many beaches and enjoy a day of sun, surf and shelling.  

 

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November 2009

 

As I write this, Southwest Florida is in the midst of its first real cold front of the season.   Last night we had a record low of 46 degrees.  Just a few days ago we were having record high temperatures in the 90’s.  Things sure can switch around weather-wise in a hurry.  I had to go digging for my Gor-Tex jacket and bibs along with gloves and a hooded sweatshirt.  Time to put away the flip flops and get out the boat shoes!

 

To make things interesting I had a fishing charter right in the middle of the change.  Before the front moved in bait was easy to find along the beaches and the bite was steady for days, both in the back-country and in the Gulf.  I guess the fish could sense the change in barometric pressure and knew it was time to fatten up for the impending bad weather.  

 

On my charter day the front had passed through the area.  The morning temperature had fallen to 52 degrees and the winds were gusting out of the north at 25 miles an hour, which makes it feel like 40 degrees on the water.  The low tide was a scheduled negative low at about 7:30 in the morning but the winds kept pushing the water out until about 10 AM and made for a low tide that exposed sand and oyster bars that I hadn’t seen since last winter.  The game plan had to be seriously modified or perhaps not go at all.

 

My anglers arrived at the marina and I gave them the “lack of bait”  and small craft advisory report and asked them how badly they really wanted to do this.  The vote was to go if we could, stay in the back-country out of the wind as much as possible and throw artificials if needed.  I decided to give it a go and bought 100 shrimp as a backup plan.

 

I like fishing with live shiners and threadfin herrings and I often forget just how effective live shrimp can be.  I tend to feel that a live swimming bait is going to catch the bigger fish while shrimp will attract only the smaller species.  That’s really not true at all.  Thinking back over the years, I’ve seen some pretty spectacular catches on shrimp.  After all, they are native to our waters and I’m sure they are a major part of most game fish diets.  The biggest redfish I ever caught was on a shrimp and jig combo.

 

We headed off to the north end of Estero Bay.  The idea was to fish the many cuts found in the area around the oyster bars.  There was so little water due to the low tide and wind that I figured the fish would have to be in those cuts.  Heck, there wasn’t enough water anywhere else for them to swim in!  The hunch paid off in a big way.  

 

We used nothing but shrimp for bait and rigged them on small yellow 1/4 ounce jig heads.  The guys cast them near oyster bar points and in the deepest cuts and then worked them back nice and slow over the bottom.  During the course of the day they caught over 30 snook including two slot fish, a couple of nice redfish, keeper trout, a dozen keeper sheepshead, a small gag grouper, scads of mangrove snapper and more than our share of catfish.  We had constant action for most of the day and we arrived back at the dock with smiles on our faces and dinner in the box.

 

The valuable lesson here is don’t be afraid to change gears when things get tough and don’t be afraid to put live shrimp in the well as a go-to bait.  As we move further and further into the winter months live shrimp should become part of your game plan.  They area easy to get and easy to use.

 

Best of luck!

 

 

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December 2009

 

 

 

 

While driving to Fish Tale Marina a few days ago I crossed over the Little Hickory bridge.  At the top there was a young couple standing arm in arm looking east waiting for the sun to come up and start another day.  The wind had finally stopped blowing and the air was full of moisture so that everything was shrouded in a mist like fog.  I knew the sunrise was going to be a colorful and beautiful one.

 

We are so lucky to live where we live.  Just about everywhere you look there is something to catch the eye.  Rosette spoonbills are wading the flats and eagles soar overhead.  Dolphins are working the schools of fish for breakfast and the ever present royal terns are diving for bait.  It’s too bad we tend to drive right past these moments without stopping.

 

This is the time of year when we really need to sit back and take a deep breath and enjoy our surroundings.  I figure we have just about a month.  January will soon be upon us and that will mark the beginning of the winter tourist and snowbird season and we locals won’t have time to do anything but work.  It’s a good thing.  Our economy depends on this time of year.  But it’s very tough on family outings and most of our free time is spent trying to rest up for the next working day.

 

So get out there and smell the roses.  Take a weekday off and go to the beach.  I don’t care what beach... just go.  Pack a lunch, a good book and a beach chair and plop yourself down and enjoy the view.  Turn off the cell phone.  You can live for a few hours without voicemail and text messages.

 

Go to a local weekend festival.  There are all kinds of art fairs and events going on in our area and in most cases you can visit a least two in a day.  No festivals?  No problem.  Head over to Matlacha and visit the dozen or so art galleries along Pine Island Road.

 

Make lunch last forever.  Go to your favorite watering hole and have a nice long lunch with your significant other.  Arrive around noon and stay until three.  Try several small things on the menu accompanied by your favorite libations and be sure to try something you’ve never had before.  When you think it’s time to leave, order one more item off the menu.

 

Go topless.  Rent a convertible from one of the car rental outlets at the airport and then cruise the beaches with the top down.   Start with a leisurely drive through Sanibel and Captiva Islands and then head over to Fort Myers Beach and cruise the strip.  Stop along the way and visit a t-shirt shop and do your best to find something really tacky to put on a shelf when you get home.  Something that says “Florida” on it and has sand in it would be perfect.

 

Last but not least get up before dawn and find a place to watch the sun come up.  Take a photo of it and then do the same thing in the late afternoon and watch the sun go down.  Put those photos on the fridge or on your desk at work and refer to them often.

 

 

 

 

 

 

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